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Thread: Restoring a Volga

  1. #21
    Administrator av8or1's Avatar
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    RESTORATION UPDATE

    Progress as of February 24th includes:

    * Rear license plate illumination light removed
    * Tail light section wiring harness removed
    * Fuel filler neck, hoses and fuel cap removed
    * Fuel tank and tank straps removed

    All parts cataloged and stored in freezer bags, as usual.

    One item that I definitely wanted to address during this restoration was the rather strong smell of fuel inside the cabin of the car. After removing the tank, I saw why. You can too if you look at the picture below of the tank after removal. There is a wet spot on the top of the tank right underneath the location of the driver's side metal retaining strap. You can see that it extends into the center of the tank via the dark black color that separates itself from the dust that has collected on the top of the tank. This dark color is some kind of sealer that is simply not doing a good job. I could feel the fuel on my finger tip when pressing it against this part of the tank. I didn't see any other evidence of leaks, so I believe this to be the source. Later on when I get closer to reassembly, I will send the tank out for a professional cleaning and refurbishment. I've done that on my own before and it can get nasty, so I'll pay to let someone else do it this time. Hah!

    Note the GAZ logo on the top of the tank next to the sender. Cool!

    All in all the area of the body underneath, behind and to each side of the tank looked ok. There does appear to be a bit of overspray of whatever sealer they applied whenever they applied it. I do see some welds on the driver's side above the wheel well that I don't see on the passenger's side. So again, I'm not sure what happened there, but ... well, time will tell.

    Thank you for reading,

    Jerry
    Attached Images
    1983 GAZ Volga 3102
    1987 GAZ Volga 3102
    1970 Plymouth Road Runner
    1985 Mazda RX7 GSL-SE
    1985 Mazda RX7 GSL-SE
    1985 Mazda RX7 GSL-SE
    1992 Toyota 4X4 - 324,000+ miles and still kicking
    2000 F350 XLT SD 7.3L PSD DRW CC LB 4x4

  2. #22
    Jerry, are you goint to take the whole car apart?
    1957 volga gaz-m21B
    2016 BMW X4M
    2012 ducati monster 796
    www.volga21.com

  3. #23
    Administrator av8or1's Avatar
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    mockba2- Yes, that is the plan: a "frame off restoration", though this is a unibody vehicle, so I won't actually be removing a body from the chassis.
    RESTORATION UPDATE

    Progress as of February 25th includes:
    * Trunk supports and torsion bars removed
    * Driver's side rear passenger door card removed, door inspected

    All parts cataloged and stored in freezer bags, as usual.

    Returned home late tonight, went running, then took a nap. Woke up 2 hours later wondering what the heck happened. Oh well, guess I needed the sleep. So needless to say I didn't get much done tonight. I thought about working late but ran out of gloves and space to store parts. I will need to dedicate some time tomorrow to clearing more room and general shop organization.

    Posting pictures even though there isn't much exciting to show tonight. Once I removed the door card however, I noticed some damage at the bottom outer end. While I don't think this is a contributing factor to the body panel mis-alignment issue, it does indicate that this door may indeed be the problem. It could simply be damaged to the point of not sitting correctly in the door jamb. Time will tell.

    Thank you for reading,

    Jerry
    Attached Images
    1983 GAZ Volga 3102
    1987 GAZ Volga 3102
    1970 Plymouth Road Runner
    1985 Mazda RX7 GSL-SE
    1985 Mazda RX7 GSL-SE
    1985 Mazda RX7 GSL-SE
    1992 Toyota 4X4 - 324,000+ miles and still kicking
    2000 F350 XLT SD 7.3L PSD DRW CC LB 4x4

  4. #24
    Administrator av8or1's Avatar
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    RESTORATION UPDATE

    Progress as of February 28th includes:
    * Driver's side rear passenger door internal components removed and inspected

    All parts cataloged and stored in freezer bags, as usual.

    Returned home from work late again tonight, went running, then only a couple of hours available to work on the Volga. The wife also had a chore for me in there, so time was even more restricted. So not much to report. Oh well. I did manage to remove all of the internal components of the driver's side passenger door. Although I had spotted some damage on this door as stated in an earlier post, the rest of the door appears to be in good condition. No rust to speak of, which is a good thing.

    By the way, I am deliberately taking my time with the disassembly and with the restoration as a whole. While I want to finish as soon as I can, I also don't want to rush and risk damaging something that would be difficult or impossible to replace. In addition, I am trying to enjoy this work and that's difficult to do if you are always rushing to get stuff done. We'll see how it goes.

    I'll post a picture tonight just to post a picture. Reading Internet forums is always more enjoyable when pictures are involved, even if they only repeat the textual information shared.

    Thank you for reading,
    Jerry
    Attached Images
    1983 GAZ Volga 3102
    1987 GAZ Volga 3102
    1970 Plymouth Road Runner
    1985 Mazda RX7 GSL-SE
    1985 Mazda RX7 GSL-SE
    1985 Mazda RX7 GSL-SE
    1992 Toyota 4X4 - 324,000+ miles and still kicking
    2000 F350 XLT SD 7.3L PSD DRW CC LB 4x4

  5. #25
    Administrator av8or1's Avatar
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    Ok gang-

    I am running up against an unexpected problem that is quite simple in nature, yet very difficult in execution. I thought I would throw the subject out there and see if anyone had any good ideas that I hadn't thought of. The problem deals with the door, which is again, a rather simple concept. Ok so, the rear door is held to the car by two hinges. The top hinge has three bolts. One is a 14 mm (if I recall correctly) head but the other two are countersunk flat head bolts that you remove with a flathead screwdriver. These two bolts are the problem. Sure, this kind of issue is typical during a restoration and again, the concept and solutions are relatively straightforward. Hell it's almost embarrasing right now just discussing it. But what the heck, I am about to need to start hacking away at them and would prefer not to, so I decided to post. Besides, it might be interesting for others to see what kind of issues they might run into if they do this kind of work someday ...

    Anyway, these bolts won't budge. At all. I have tried all of my usual remedies (that work, almost always) but these bolts are stubborn as hell. I have used my impact gun. I have heated the bolts with a torch. I have applied a significant amount of penetrating fluid. I have tried tightening, then loosening them. In the end, the channels for the screwdriver in these bolt heads are starting to become squared off. I broke off one part of the tip of one of my screwdrivers too. Ah the fun of restoration, yeah? :-) Guys I am to the point where I will need to break out my grinder to get them removed. Pictures below. As you can see, I will need replacement bolts during reassembly! Hahaha!

    So have any of you come across this and if so, what did you use to get these critters out? Understand that I realize that there aren't any easy answers and that posing the question is almost silly, but again, what the hell. I have spoken with another 3102 driver who told me that this is a customary problem, so in that regard it isn't surprising that I am encountering it.

    Thanks,
    Jerry
    Attached Images
    1983 GAZ Volga 3102
    1987 GAZ Volga 3102
    1970 Plymouth Road Runner
    1985 Mazda RX7 GSL-SE
    1985 Mazda RX7 GSL-SE
    1985 Mazda RX7 GSL-SE
    1992 Toyota 4X4 - 324,000+ miles and still kicking
    2000 F350 XLT SD 7.3L PSD DRW CC LB 4x4

  6. #26
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    Im thinking break out the grinder but then i am no mechanic!

  7. #27
    Senior Member alexandr's Avatar
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    Russia
    When i can't get them out with an impact screwdriver (the one that turns when you hit it with a hammer) i drill them out.
    First you drill with a small diameter to pinpoint center of the bolt, or you can hammer a deep mark with a cone steel marker.
    Then you drill with a 10 millimeter diameter untill the head of the bolt is off.
    Next you take the door off (before you do all that put the normal bolt back so that the door didn't fall when you finish drilling the heads).
    When the door is off you will need to remove the remaining body of the bolts.
    You will have to drill strictly in the center of the bolt, with a diameter less then the screw thread.
    When you finished drilling you will have to clean the thread with a screw tap.

    If you didn't manage to hit the center of the bolt and the screw thread is gone, you will have to replace the plate that is inside of the door frame (it is replaceable on Pobeda and Volga21) or put a bolt with a bigger thread diameter (usually if it was M6 you put M8, if it was M8 then you put M10).

    Sometimes you can manage to unscrew the remaining bolt body with that instrument (don't know how you call it)

    Remember the bolts are (or at least they showld be) made of hard steel, so the job is not very easy.

    Anyway it's very strange that you didn't manage to unscrew the upper bolts, common thing is when the lower ones are stuck (they get too much water). I managed to unscrew all upper bolts on my Pobeda with this:


    So i would keep trying untill the bolt head is off copletly (as i usually do), and only then start drilling. But i am referring the Pobeda, i'am afraid that 3102 door frame can't take so much beating. Drilling is harder and more complex, but at least you dont risk to damage the frame structure.

  8. #28
    Administrator av8or1's Avatar
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    cyprus and alexandr- thank you for the replies. They are both on-point.

    alexandr we must be relatives or something because we think alike in many ways. My plan of attack is similar to yours, but in my experience it is always best to avoid drilling if at all possible. That is a last resort because of the problems it can create. So this is my plan:

    1) Using my grinder, make a cross-hatch "X" pattern into the bolt head. Chip out the 4 small pie shaped pieces of the head, if they don't come out on their own.

    2) Repeat this for the second bolt head. Note that I have left the bottom bolts in place so that the door won't fall - also I have it supported on the end with one of my floor jacks. Good thought though - safety first.

    3) Remove and stow the door in a safe place.

    4) Using a pair of vice grips (which is the English name of the second picture that you posted), grasp the end of each bolt head and simply unscrew it. Use heat and/or penetrating fluid as necessary. This would be the cleanest/best solution.

    5) If #4 doesn't work, then drill as alexandr described and hope to hell that you don't damage the threads, which is why I will try everything else prior to drilling.

    So that's how I will approach it tonight (hopefully tonight I should say). I'll take pictures and post.

    Thanks again for the input, I really enjoy these types of discussions! It's also intriguing for me because I have only worked on American/Japanese cars in the past and haven't seen this type of bolt usage in any door pillar I have ever seen. So this is another reason I thought I'd post ... it's an interesting solution!

    Jerry
    1983 GAZ Volga 3102
    1987 GAZ Volga 3102
    1970 Plymouth Road Runner
    1985 Mazda RX7 GSL-SE
    1985 Mazda RX7 GSL-SE
    1985 Mazda RX7 GSL-SE
    1992 Toyota 4X4 - 324,000+ miles and still kicking
    2000 F350 XLT SD 7.3L PSD DRW CC LB 4x4

  9. #29
  10. #30
    Senior Member maxmermer's Avatar
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    Jerry if the impact driver doesn't work as others suggested, in my opinion the next best thing is a screw extractor, always worked like a charm for me, any Autozone Kragen or Pepboys should have a set, it's pretty cheap, I believe they even rent them out. The chances of ruining the thread are slim since it doesn't require a large hole, and you won't damage anything around the screw. The screw cap remains in place. There are different designs but my favorite is the reverse drill bit kind.
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